Did you know that glass-door refrigerators form condensation (water) on the outside of the glass in high-humidity areas? This not only spoils the appearance but also leads to water pooling on hardwood floors, causing irreversible damage, or making tiled floors slippery.
Not many people realize this when purchasing a glass-door refrigerator, because in the past, glass doors were actually only used for commercial refrigeration in stores and shops. But now, with the renovation boom and the growing popularity of open-plan spaces, glass-door refrigerators are gradually becoming more common. There are versions suitable for all homes and their needs.
Condensation basically forms when there is moisture (humidity) in the air, and since the inside of the refrigerator is cold, the glass also gets cold. Combined with the humid weather outside the refrigerator, this forms water—much like how you see foggy windows inside a house in the early morning, where the glass is still too cold from the outside for water to form inside.
To give you a general idea of what’s happening now, and because not many people can solve this problem at all, we’ve put together some basic explanations:
- Ordinary double-glazed (2 panes) refrigerators with just regular glass will start to condense at around 50-55% humidity (the market standard), and will leak water at above 65-70% humidity.
- Triple-glazed units work better because the front panel doesn’t get as cold (we have 3 layers instead of 2), so they usually perform very well up to 60-65% humidity before condensation starts.
- Then we have LOW-E glass—a special coating on the glass that reflects up to 70% of heat rays. It basically keeps the cold in better and helps keep the outer glass warmer. LOW-E glass can typically withstand 70-75% humidity before condensation begins.
- Argon gas filling—this process, used in many units, prevents the front glass from getting cold by providing a layer between the two gas-filled panes. When combined with any of the above, it helps increase humidity resistance by at least 5% before moisture forms.
- Heated glass—heated glass is the only way to 100% prevent condensation on the glass. It uses a thin film charged at low voltage with a power consumption of about 50-65 watts, which actually doubles (and mostly triples) the energy consumption of the unit. However, it can prevent condensation on the cabinet body or door frame, which is also very common.
- Condensation on the cabinet body and door frame is common in cheaper units. In many factories, the foaming process for internal insulation is done carelessly, and poor foaming leads to various condensation issues—especially if the appliance is made of stainless steel. Cold can still transfer from the refrigerator to parts of the door frame and sides, then condense just like on the glass. So it’s important to ensure your supplier addresses this too. There are ways to fix this, such as running heat pipes from the condenser through the inner walls.
So this is a quick lesson on condensation, so people don’t get confused by not knowing what they’re buying.